CHANEL presents a whimsical collection inspired by its founder’s love for intaglio décor
By The Time Place Magazine; Photo Credits: ©CHANEL 
CHANEL channelled true romance as it presented its 2024-25 Métiers d’art collection with Lake Xihu in Hangzhou, China as a backdrop
Beneath the midnight sky, enveloped in a dream-like fog, CHANEL unveiled its much-coveted 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection amid a backdrop that felt like it was lifted from the pages of a fairy tale: Lake Xihu (West Lake) in Hangzhou, China. A city steeped in poetic beauty and its centuries-old silk heritage, Hangzhou feels like the enchanting reverie we’ve all been searching for. But the connection runs deeper. This historic city holds a symbolic place in the CHANEL founder’s story. A sweeping image of West Lake was immortalised on the largest of the Coromandel lacquer screens that once adorned Gabrielle Chanel’s private apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. They were part of a treasured collection of some 20 Coromandel panels she amassed over her lifetime. “I would faint with happiness when I walked into a Chinese art dealer and saw a Coromandel,” she once joyously confessed. Guests were seated in six graceful semi-circular rows facing the water, a natural amphitheatre of elegance and reflection. As night fell, the rhythmic pulse of beating drums echoed across the lake. One by one, models emerged and strode down the bridge as their silhouettes danced and shimmered on the mirrored surface.
CHANEL’s signature style codes and lasting inspirations are reimagined through the exceptional craftsmanship of the Maisons d’art at le19M. The show opened with a line-up of long-shouldered coats, suitable for day or night, in rich tweed, satin, and velvet. A series of all-black looks created striking silhouettes against the midnight backdrop, with some pieces embroidered with delicate flowers that added a touch of mystery. Meanwhile, duffle coats and jackets—both cropped and oversized—were detailed with decorative frogging by Paloma and lined in smooth silk satin. There’s also a soft elegance in the details: the silky finish of the pockets, pagoda sleeves, mandarin collars, and subtle glimmers of phosphorescent braids, hand-embroidered by Atelier Montex, glowing gently under the night sky.
Staying true to the Maison’s timeless style, the collection featured straight-cut jackets belted at the waist, side-buttoned silhouettes, and tuxedo jackets lined in white satin, paired with pleated skirts for volume, wrap skirts, culottes, and cropped trousers. As a nod to the theme of travel, this narrative extended into the accessories, with travel bags, vanity cases, and standout knitwear pieces, including a striking jumpsuit printed with Coromandel screen motifs, subtly layered beneath tailored suiting.
Not stopping there, T-shirts, bustiers, cardigans, skirts, dresses, Bermuda shorts, and trousers, in cotton or tweed knits, are now rendered in floral or two-tone palettes. As if quiet echoes from the past, graphic pockets also appeared on bags and jackets, their envelope-inspired shapes evoking the charm of handwritten letters. There are also clear nods to the beloved Coromandel screens, with floral camellia and lotus motifs embroidered by Lesage running the length of a long dress featuring a pleated, ruffled plastron—or sweeping across suits, sometimes enveloping the entire piece. Jade green, soft pink, and sky-blue hues evoke the luminous brilliance of lacquer, while faded blue jeans recall the gentle ripples on the lake’s surface. Deep blacks, rich browns, and darker tones pay homage to the wood of the panels and the velvety descent into night.
Flowers, fruits—a tribute to ancient Chinese prunus—and time-worn ribs on earthenware inspired Goossens’ medallions and cuffs. The night’s sensual, romantic mood came alive through exquisite pleating and flounces by Lemarié and Lognon, delicate embroideries, and lacquered laces on blouses with plastrons and ruff collars. Long dresses, skirts, negligees, pyjamas, and a gold lace gown echoed Gabrielle Chanel’s timeless allure. The 2024/25 Métiers d’art commissioned a short film by Wim Wenders, starring House ambassadors Tilda Swinton, Xin Zhilei, and new ambassador Leah Dou. The film pays tribute to the lake’s rich heritage and explores transcending reality through image and inspiration with CHANEL. It reimagines Mademoiselle Chanel’s screen as a modern window to the world, blending past dreams with contemporary technology and reflecting Hangzhou’s unique harmony of tradition and innovation.
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