Chopard turns rare find into regal haute joaillerie in the new Insofu collection
By The Time Place Magazine
It is a well-known fact that working with emeralds can prove tricky, as its mining takes as much expertise as it does luck. Hence, when Chopard’s Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele stumbled upon a remarkable discovery, it was only instinctual for the Maison to take the rare opportunity to create its next groundbreaking collection.
The story of Chopard’s latest Haute Joaillerie collection began with the 6,225-carat raw “Insofu” emerald that originated from the Kagem Mine in Zambia. Named after “elephant” in Bemba language by the miners, the gemstone underwent a rigorous process that required Chopard’s craftsmen to learn the art of gem-cutting from the leading experts. After a lengthy process, the Maison successfully uncovered 850 carats of the gem, some of which first made an appearance at last year’s Oscars week. This year, the remaining emeralds are finally revealed to the world as part of the Insofu collection.
It goes without saying that the titular elephant is the first to make an appearance in the collection. As an ode to its muse, Chopard forges an elephant-shaped 18-carat white gold pendant with diamond-embellished borders. Within those borders are a variety of the differently sized and cut emeralds. Hanging freely on a diamond and emerald-bearing chain, this pendant is not the only ornate long necklace to be introduced.
For many, the remainder of the Insofu collection is likely to elicit a sense of recollection due to its 20th century finesse. Designed to perfectly fall on one’s decollete, Chopard designs an array of Art Deco-inspired necklaces fit for royals. The first features a full emerald, pink sapphire, and diamond-studded necklace with a framed 15.53-carat octagonal emerald. Already an opulent piece, the necklace is paired with a long white gold necklace with pearls, emeralds and diamonds, as well as a much longer pearl sautoir. Just as enchanting, the second features a white gold choker with a 6.61-carat emerald, surrounded by a charming array of different-cut diamonds. This choker is completed with a tie necklace harbouring three similarly emerald-cut emeralds and dainty diamonds. For anyone seeking a “simple” choker, Chopard also adds a third necklace in the form of an intricate diamond-studded white gold motif with central emerald. This dazzling set is mounted on a black velvet ribbon, which is made even more precious by a sprinkle of delicate pearls.
Between the mesmerising motif and material, the Maison adds rings, bracelets and earrings featuring the same beautiful emeralds, pearls, and diamonds as the necklaces. One earring, however, departs from the others in that it is shaped like an exotic blue flower opening to reveal its emerald nectar. In true Chopard fashion, the collection would also be incomplete without the unveiling of a regal watch. Blossoming from the diamond-encrusted dial is a captivating emerald- and diamond-studded bezel. Made of mostly pear-cut gems, the motif flourishes outward akin to the enchanting dance of a peacock. Be it the timepiece or other jewelleries, the Insofu emerald reaches its full potential under the creative direction of Caroline Scheufele.
Home to the world’s finest high jewelleries, Chopard’s forte lies in pouring meaning into its pieces whilst serving purpose all throughout. The Maison has long lived up to its word regarding ethical sourcing. In the making of the Insofu collection, Chopard remains committed to using ethically sourced materials. Furthermore, in partnership with the Gemfields mining company, Chopard supports wildlife conservation as well as multi-sectoral community empowerment projects. An ode to the eponymous elephant, it became second nature for the Maison to also partner with the charity Elephant Family, which strives to protect the sacred animal’s habitats and to advocate for human and elephant co-existence.
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