CELINE’s new creative director launches exciting era for the brand with a historical twist and flair
By The Time Place Magazine
CELINE debuted a strong and refreshing new collection for its Spring 2026 line-up recently during Paris Haute Couture Week. The new chapter comes from designer Michael Rider’s first runway for the Maison, and the result is nothing short of extraordinary.
Held at CELINE’s headquarters on Rue Vivienne, the show began in the courtyard beneath a giant painted silk scarf designed as a canopy, which later made an appearance on the runway as well. For the collection itself, newly appointed creative director Michael Rider paid homage to the brand’s past icons, Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane. Rider merged Philo’s signature relaxed, elegant silhouettes with Slimane’s sharp tailoring, seen in pieces like skinny jeans and leather jackets—now reimagined in asymmetrical cuts and styled under crisp white shirts.
Rider, who previously worked under Philo, took things further by introducing his own taste and leanings, particularly through playful nods to sportswear reimagined in a luxury context. Rugby shirts, Argyle patterns, and oversized knits took on a more collegiate feel, paired with timeless staples like classic camel coats. The runway also brought back 90s-inspired layering: shirt sandwiches now stacked with sweaters, longline coats, and turtlenecks. Conversely, he preserves the essence of French-girl chic with standout pieces like the tres chic strapless black gown, a collarless bouclé jacket, and Mary Jane ballet shoes, blending the luxury brand’s grounded simplicity with unmistakable Parisian elegance and flair.
There were also several elevated looks that went beyond simplicity, like a cap-sleeved little black dress made entirely from thousands of satin clothing tags labelled “CELINE”, or the designer’s own touch of American flair with an oversized rugby polo layered with leggings and a white turtleneck. It was a clear signal that while Rider is staying rooted in the house’s DNA, he’s also bringing his own individual vision to the table—a bold move considering this was his runway debut.
Bringing an extra dose of vibrant colour with bold reds and greens splashed across the runway, Rider also placed strong emphasis on accessories. Models were layered with oversized gold charms, standout embellishments, and dramatic costume jewellery. Belts were finished with striking oversized hardware, proudly showcasing the brand’s logo. He also debuted statement footwear, including a pair of cowboy boots in patchwork python leather and pointed shoes adorned with bows.
One of the most-anticipated pieces was Rider’s take on Philo’s iconic luggage bag, which first made waves back in 2010. The updated version still keeps the signature winged shape and that cheeky smiley zipper, but now comes in a more exaggerated width and extra-large sizes. It also arrives in a mix of exciting shades like rich chestnut and bold Yves Klein blue, proving Rider isn’t afraid to amp things up while still keeping the bag’s original charm intact.
Rider also keeps the brand’s iconic Triomphe logo alive in the accessories game, this time refreshed with new colourways and layered treatments. It wasn’t just the legendary luggage bag making a comeback—a new leather top-handle design featuring a bold C-stamp logo, revived from CELINE’s archives, made its way down the runway, perfectly echoing the house’s past hits. If you’ve been waiting for the return of CELINE’s cult-favourite wicker basket bag, it’s now back, better as ever.
“I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on, that becomes a part of the wearer’s life, that may capture a moment in time but also speaks to years and years of gestures and occasions and change, of the past, the present and the future, of memories, of usefulness and of fantasy, of life really,” Rider shared in an official statement, adding how much this debut show means to him.
“Coming back to CELINE, and to Paris, back to 16 rue Vivienne in a changed world, has been incredibly emotional for me. And a complete joy.”
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