Driven by the Same Power, Magnetism and Strength of Character, Cartier and the Panther Are Inseparable.
From one era to the next, the creature weaves a shared story with the jeweller, one marked by boldness and creativity. It all begins at 13 Rue de la Paix, the stylistic cradle of the Maison, where the Panther first appears as a watch adorned with onyx and diamonds. The year is 1914, and in that same year, she features on an invitation to a jewellery exhibition commissioned by Cartier from the artist George Barbier. It is later, under Jeanne Toussaint, appointed Creative Director in 1933, that the Panther takes on a sculptural, three-dimensional form.
Jeanne Toussaint, “la Panthère”
This is the nickname she earned for her sharp mind and fierce determination. Together with designer Pierre Lemarchand, who frequently visited the Vincennes Zoo in the 1940s, they shaped a new vision: a predatory, powerful panther poised atop an impressive emerald cabochon weighing over 116 carats, set to become one of the most iconic pieces of 20th-century jewellery. This brooch marked the beginning of one of Cartier’s most emblematic jewellery design themes.
From Naturalism to Abstraction, From Past to Present,an Ever-evolving Inspiration
Transformation comes naturally to the Panther. Since her first appearance as a spotted motif, she has taken on countless forms, whether naturalistic, sculptural or abstract in design.
Jewellery and Watchmaking: A Multi-faceted Emblem
In both jewellery and watchmaking, the Panthère de Cartier, an enduring icon of evolution, continues to embody the spirit of the times. She fiercely captivates the Maison’s latest collections.
A Panther With Double the Magnetism
Cartier’s iconic jewellery emblem doubles her presence in a striking new collection of two face-to-face Panthers. With piercing eyes and finely detailed expressions, these Panthers pay tribute to Cartier’s rich naturalistic tradition. Positioned face-to-face, they enhance the collection’s clean, modern design, which includes a torque necklace, a bangle bracelet and rings.
These flexible jewellery pieces hug the body as closely as possible, channelling the powerful and intense nature of Cartier’s emblematic creature. The movement of the articulated Panther necklace and bracelet is made possible by the composition of two different components crossed with two gold blades, which are linked to two springs positioned in the heads of the Panthers. This is a real challenge in terms of craftsmanship that requires the Maison’s jewellers to respect the distribution of the Panther’s spots.
Designed to be worn alone or paired with other creations, these wild pieces come in yellow gold with black lacquer octagonal spots, or in white gold paved with diamonds and set with onyx spots.
Yellow Gold: A Fluid Feline Duo
With an amplified volume, exquisite gold work and graceful flexibility, this face-to-face necklace continues the creative legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, who revived such bold designs in the 1950s. This wide, flexible necklace is set with diamonds along the body and paved across the twin Panther heads.
Fiercely Rebellious
With a head in yellow gold, the Panther narrows her eyes, which are set with tsavorite garnets or emeralds. Two piercing green gazes bring a wild elegance to these stud earrings, marked with black lacquer or onyx spots.
Wildly Precious
Magnetic and untamed, the figurative Panther inspires Cartier to create a statement ring: a yellow gold Panther’s head, punctuated with black lacquer and baring a predatory jaw.
Panther Architecture
How do you capture the Panther in the purest geometric form? Cartier designs a sculpted, openwork head, hollowed into a honeycomb structure of white gold, fully paved with diamonds and dotted with onyx spots.
A Jewellery Heroine
The Panther often takes centre stage in Cartier’s jewellery narrative. A true muse who inspires stories, like this necklace, where she seems ready to pounce to protect a 15.28-carat Zambian emerald. Around the central motif, the entire design is structured by the repetition of a graphic element: onyx-spotted links punctuated with touches of emerald. A pendant tassel adds further dynamism to the piece.
Panthère De Cartier: Precious Watches
Whether naturalistic, stylised or abstract, the Panther keeps a watchful eye over Cartier’s most precious hours. This masterpiece owes its elegance to the vitality of jewellery-making expertise, hand-finishing, lacquered and polished spots, and setting.
A Panther Ready to Pounce
A jewellery watch whose shoulder and back lines evoke the sleek limbs of a powerful yet playful Panther, caught mid-movement as she lifts a paw to pause time itself. Each of her spots is unique, irregular and positioned on different planes, creating a lifelike, organic effect. This distinctive detail is a true Cartier signature.
When Panthers Take Hold of Time
A collection of watches in yellow or rose gold, semi-paved or fully set with diamonds, where the Panther brings a magnetic elegance. Sculptural and commanding, she boldly grips the dial, linked by a gold ring. Crafted in three dimensions, with a defined nose, cheeks, piercing green eyes and pointed ears, her gold head is adorned with Cartier’s iconic spotted black lacquer coat, bringing the jewelled creature to life.
Fur Setting: A Panther’s Secret
Where does this presence come from? What explains its remarkable vitality? Cartier’s Panthère jewellery draws on many expert crafts, one of the most iconic being the fur setting. Unique to the Maison, this technique involves securing each stone with tiny, folded metal threads to recreate the animal’s coat.
Zoom in on the Panther and you’ll see fine markings that cross through gold or platinum. This craftsmanship serves one purpose: to bring the creature to life. The choices of stone sizes also follow the same ambition. Each pavé surface is shaped in volume to create a continuous, sculptural effect that accentuates every contour of the Panther. From stance to stride, the diameter of each diamond is chosen to follow the Panther’s musculature and everything must be legible beneath the surface. The goal is for the metal to disappear, and only the movement to remain.
Polygonal in shape, onyx or sapphire spots set the rhythm. The jewellery and technical challenges lie in bringing them together: coordinating and hand-cutting each one irregularly to heighten the lifelike effect. Larger on raised areas like the back, smaller along the flanks and fading completely across the white belly.
Though their layout may appear random, it follows a precise order, factoring in the distance between each spot and the number of diamonds in between. Move one, and you must move them all. Crafting a single Panther can take over a year of meticulous work. And that, precisely, is where the vitality and elegance are born.
The Panther also lends her iconic allure to Cartier’s fragrance, leather goods, and accessories collections. Magnetic and majestic, she brings elegance to everyday life.
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